How to Divide Hosta Plants

(Via Home and Family: Gardening Articles from EzineArticles.com)

Posted by admin to Uncategorized on 2008-01-03, 11:09:06

Early Spring is the best time of year to dig your hostas up and divide them. Use a garden fork and loosen the soil gently right around the hosta clump then gently place your fork in below the clump and lift it up give it a shake with the fork to loosen the soil.

Grow Hostas From Seed

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Posted by admin to Uncategorized on 2008-01-03, 11:08:45

Growing hostas from seed can be real fun to bring on your own unique plant as every seedling will be different. Before starting be sure to use well sterilised seed trays make sure the container is dry before filling with a good seed compost use fresh seed compost or make your own. To each 10 litres of peat add one teaspoon of phostogen powder fertiliser then add 1 litre of fine vermiculite and mix well add water to make the mix moist lift a handful of compost in your hand and squeeze no water should come out.

Primulas In Summer

(Via An Iowa Garden)

Posted by admin to Uncategorized on 2008-01-03, 11:08:00



There are lots of ways to classify primroses; in my experience, they can all be grouped as follows: those which don't like our cold winters, those that don't like our hot summers, and the largest group... those that don't like either one. I must confess to being irked to no end by the fact that the Juneau chapter of the American Primrose Society, is one of the largest and most active, though admittedly we're talking south coastal Alaska here. Still, I tend to get very whiny when considering that gardeners in Alaska have to take a hoe to primroses the size of cabbages to keep them from taking over their gardens, while here in Iowa (the farm state), most primulas look like recent escapees from a herbicide test plot. Fairness is a scarce commodity in gardening.
Although there is over a foot of snow on the ground here currently, let us then consider one facet of primrose hardiness: which are the most heat-tolerant here?
Primula sieboldii might be the best, by virtue of the fact that it goes dormant in the heat of July, and stays there until the next spring... a wise plant, indeed. My second place finisher up until recently would have been Primula kisoana; a Japanese species built to take the heat, with thick, very hairy leaves and stems. However, the freakish late freeze last spring killed 90% of the kisoanas in the garden: turned them to mush. I had grown this species for ten years without losing a single plant prior to that, and it was spreading all around. Several friends to whom I had given offsets said they'd lost them altogether. Now I know we are supposed to be considering just heat tolerance, but the plant has to survive until summer to judge that. Another primrose to consider would be Primula veris, the cowslip of Great Britain. There are three common wild primroses of the fields and woods in Great Britain; P. veris (the Cowslip), P. elatior (the oxlip), and P. vulgaris (the common primrose). They also are endemic across temperate continental Europe, with veris extending into western Asia.
Veris is a primrose more of the open fields, with its native range extending down into southern Russia, so it is thought therefore to be fairly heat tolerant, being able to thrive down into the Carolinas here in our country, and so I am in the process of thinking more critically about its potential here in our Iowa garden. This process is complicated somewhat by the fact that veris, elatior, and vulgaris have all been extensively interbred in nurseries, and pure species, at least in this country, are probably not very often sold in mainstream commerce. Oftentimes, therefore, one sees them sold as Primula polyantha (mainly hybrids between veris and vulgaris), and Primula acaulis (which have a lot of vulgaris blood). Veris and elatior have their flowers arising in clusters (umbellate) from taller stems, so their hybrids with this flowering pattern are called polyanthas. Vulgaris has its flowers more or less singly on shorter, multiple stems (which is called 'acauloid'). All three of these species suffer a bit from in the wild basically occurring in... yellow, which for some reason is my least favorite primrose color. Elatior tend to be a creamier, lighter yellow, veris a brighter, deeper yellow, and vulgaris, I think, kind of runs the gamut. Fortunately veris does occasionally occur in red shades, so for example, you can buy P. veris Sunset Shades, a strain selected for its orange-red hues, shown in the top picture. I just obtained my first plant of this a couple of years ago, and haven't fully evaluated it yet for hardiness, but I sure like its looks, though I suspect it is a hybrid of veris and elatior. The second picture shows a primrose with flower color more typical of veris, but is probably also a hybrid, and it is in fact labelled Primula polyanthus. The bottom picture is also a hybrid ('Butterball'); while it is umbellate, it has shorter stems, and probably has vulgaris blood in it, while the pale, creamy yellow looks like elatior.
So, the primulas we buy at the nursery of these species are probably more of a spectrum of hybrids and species, but they are all nice, and I plan on growing and better evaluating more of them, especially the Sunset Shades.

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How to Grow Agapanthus Plants

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Posted by admin to Uncategorized on 2008-01-03, 11:07:16

Container grown Agapanthus: Plant one Agapanthus per pot as they soon grow to fill the container but they will only flower as soon as their roots have filled the pot completely. Agapanthus like their roots confined to flower well. You are better to pot the plants up slowly into a slightly larger pot each time this way they will flower every year, but if you do not mind waiting then yes plant one Agapanthus straight into a large container.

How To Look After Perennial Plants On Arrival From Mail Order Nursery

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Posted by admin to Uncategorized on 2008-01-03, 11:06:29

When your parcel arrives in the post from a mail order nursery open the parcel right away and soak the roots in water for at least 15 minutes. Then depending on plant either pot into a suitable sized container or straight into the ground. You can pot plants right away all year round to help build up the root system again and then plant out when the soil and weather conditions allow.

Pruning Clematis

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Posted by admin to Uncategorized on 2008-01-03, 11:05:42

There is 3 basic groups of pruning for Clematis you only need to prune if the plant has taken over its growing space. Group 1 the species early flowering types like Clematis montana, C. macropetala and C.

How To Grow Rhodohypoxis Plants

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Posted by admin to Uncategorized on 2008-01-03, 11:05:01

Rhodohypoxis from the family (Hypoxidaceae) originated in South Africa mostly where there is high summer rainfall and dry winters near the Cape and Natal. In their natural habitat they can be found on open grassy slopes in areas of high altitude.

Organic Slug Control - Slugs No More!

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Posted by admin to Uncategorized on 2008-01-03, 11:04:06

For the past two years I have been experimenting with different controls to prevent Slug and Snail damage to our Hosta stock on the nursery. I tried the usual beer traps or milk traps worked to a certain extent but only worked in a small area around the traps.

Bonsai, an Alluring Japanese Art Form

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Posted by admin to Uncategorized on 2008-01-03, 10:53:34

The art of bonsai raising embraces the growing of tiny trees, usually in shallow trays, or small pots. By precision pruning and growing them in small containers, it is possible to retain their small shapes. It takes but a short time, to learn the basic art of pruning a bonsai tree and give you great satisfaction, but maybe a lifetime to master this art.

The Best Of The Lot! A Most Special Plant For A Mediterranean Garden

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Posted by admin to Uncategorized on 2008-01-03, 06:15:15

Is there an ornamental plant which makes a most beautiful and unusual sculptural silhouette, requires virtually no care and attention, and is extremely modest in its water needs? The answer is yes! It is the Bottle Palm, Nolina recurvata.