Receding Snow
First published April 17, 2008
It’s a mixed blessing watching the last remnants of snow finally disappear from my yard. On the one hand, the receding snow has solved the mystery of my missing rake, but on the other hand, the lawn looks like a matted mess. While snow is cursed by many, one can’t argue about the miraculous job it does of concealing last fall’s mess. Everyone’s yard and garden looks perfect with a thick blank of snow, but as the old saying goes, “You don’t know who is swimming naked until the tide rolls out.”
So to avoid the uncomfortable naked feeling that snowmelt causes, here are few things you can do while you’re waiting for the yard to green up. A good place to start is with some light raking, providing that you don’t get too ambitious. Raking icy or wet spots on your lawn is not a good idea because the crowns (the junction between roots and the grass blades) can be easily damaged. Although the grass will heal, bare patches are prime real estate for weeds that want to gain a foothold. When it comes to lawn rejuvenation, patience is definitely a virtue.
What lies beneath
Unfortunately, patience is what most of us don’t have when we see a blanket of snow mould growing on the lawn. Because it becomes well established the previous fall and grows beneath the cover of snow, this annoying fungus holds the dubious distinction of being the first yard pest to feel our wrath each spring. But to be honest, even though we hate snow mould, is more of a cosmetic pest than it is a serious lawn pest. By July, its damage is repaired and the mould is long forgotten. The worst thing about snow mould, however, is that it is an allergen that causes many a stuffy nose and congested chest. Fortunately, snow mould doesn’t seem to be as prevalent this year as it did last year, so allergy sufferers may be in luck. If you really can’t stand to look at it though, a light raking will get rid of the ‘fluff’—just not the pest itself.
Common questions
Can one clean up the old, dead perennial growth from last year without causing any harm to this year’s growth? Yes, but not unconditionally. Cleaning up the old, dead leaves of perennials, such as hostas or peonies, won’t damage your plants per se, but stomping around on the wet soil around the base of the plants will compact the soil and damage roots. So if the soil in your perennial bed is wet, and if looking at dead hosta leaves is driving you crazy, strategically placing some temporary plywood to stand on will prevent your boots from turning soil into root-damaging concrete.
Is it too early to prune? Although the proper time for pruning trees and shrubs varies with the plant species, the best time for pruning broken branches is as soon as you notice them. The only exception, of course, is American elms, which cannot be pruned from April until October because of the risk of Dutch elm disease. Having said that, any large or inaccessible branches are best left to the professional arborists to remove. Broken plant limbs are one thing; broken human limbs are quite another.
When should I start watering? It’s not really a question of when to water so much as it is a question of where and what to water. Only water areas where the ground is thawed (possibly next your home’s foundation) and even then, only water if there are plants that are breaking dormancy. For example, if you have a ubiquitous cedar or two planted next to the front door under the eaves where the snow is long gone and where the neighbourhood cats leave you ‘presents,’ feel free to give said cedar a good soaking.
Its important to remember that the spring yard cleanup issue is as much about mental health as it is about plant health. I must admit that I break the rules a bit when it comes to raking the lawn because I can only stand to look at matted tree leaves on dead grass for so long. I guess you could say that in my yard, exuberance usually wins out over restraint when the tide rolls out.
