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Posted by admin to spring garden chores, spring gardening on 2008-03-09, 07:07:00
"Spring Gardening for the Early Bird"
By Deb Lambert
I don't know about you, but I'm ready to beat my snowshoes into plowshares. Quite a snowy winter, with wildly fluctuating temperatures, at least in this neck of the woods. However, there was just enough frigid weather to encourage and retain a lumpy, tenacious layer of ice on all areas not facing due south. For the past two weeks, refilling bird feeders was accomplished at risk to life and limb. Snow cover is a good thing, as an open winter can be problematic for rhododendrons, azaleas, mountain laurels and other broadleaved evergreens... especially when combined with the strong, drying winds of March. Often, winter damage isn't evident until late March/early April. A light application of anti-dessicant, at about 40-50º, will conserve any remaining moisture within the foliage (normally this is applied in late Nov., and again during the January thaw), making the transition to spring an easier one.
Although the ground starts to thaw nicely under late winter/early spring sun, soil usually remains too wet to be friable (ready for tilling), until a bit later. Lawns, raked too early, are susceptible to damage. Young grass plants and established grass roots, loosened during frost heaves, are easily pulled out by vigorous raking performed too early in the season. For this reason, lawn dethatching may be best postponed until fall, or at least until the ground has thoroughly dried and grass roots have settled down into the soil, once more. Foot traffic and heavy power equipment will squeeze essential air spaces from the soil and cause much root damage. Such compressed soil does not recover, precluding necessary oxygen from reaching roots and limiting moisture absorption, during summer irrigation.
As soils start to dry, winter rye planted last fall, can be turned back into dormant beds as "green manure." Check cold frames, fences, trellises, walkways, walls and compost bins for any damage and make necessary repairs. Hoses should be checked over for weak spots, breaks or damaged couplings. Hose mender kits and couplings are readily available in garden centers and are easily installed on the nylon-reinforced hoses that most of us use. Inspect power equipment such as rototillers, lawnmowers, shredders and trimmers; overhaul, sharpen and repair as needed. Clean, remove rust, sharpen (edgers, spades) and oil wooden handles of garden tools. Oil all moving parts of loppers and pruners, after cleaning and sharpening blades.
Although it's getting late for winter pruning of fruit trees, there's still time to prune blueberries and raspberries. Because the fruit will be borne on last year's wood, only a light annual pruning should be necessary, removing just the older and weaker wood from blueberries. Raspberries have a habit of traveling to surrounding lawn and garden areas, so cut back any wandering growth (and maybe install deep edging material) right now. Older canes that bore fruit last season can be cut back to the ground, which allows for development of new canes in your bed of July-bearing raspberries. Ever-bearing raspberries bear on older (up to 2-3 years) as well as new canes, so trim out older or weaker wood and nip back escaping suckers.
March is also the time to prune wisteria vines. Notoriously stubborn to bloom, winter pruning, combined with early spring feeding (balanced organic fertilizer and superphosphate), will encourage blossom production. Pruning lateral shoots back to 2-3 buds will induce the formation of flower spurs. This procedure should be followed each March - prune vegetative growth as necessary during the growing season.
There's still time to start many flower and vegetable seeds inside. Slower crops, like broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage and onions should be started now. These cool-weather crops will be among the first to be transplanted outside, after a hardening-off period, so don't delay much beyond mid-March. There are other cool-weather crops to plant directly outside, weather permitting. Onion sets, peas and spinach can be planted as early as mid-March, depending on temperature and soil moisture - remember, spring in New England is a fickle thing!
As soils begin to dry out, cow manure, compost, lime, garden gypsum (for drainage), rock phosphate, superphosphate and other soil amendments can be incorporated in preparation for this season's crops. If you're in doubt as to the soil's pH (alkalinity/acidity), use a soil test kit or have a professional soil test performed on your lawn and/or garden soil. Avoid chemical, granular plant foods, opting for longer-lasting organic granular fertilizers - better for the soil, environment and gardener! So, enjoy March, as you get the jump on spring gardening in your own backyard!
Oh, keep feeding those hungry backyard birds - at least until insects and natural food sources become plentiful. Mount a few birdhouses, offer nesting material and provide a clean source of water. Be an "early bird" this spring and enjoy the season!
More garden doings at
Corliss Bros. Nursery & Garden Center - where I author a monthly newsletter... a good resource for garden info! Check their 'Garden Guide' section.
Deb Lambert ©2008
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