Designing and Maintaining that Seaside Garden

(Via gardenauthor)

Posted by admin to maintaining seaside gardens, seaside gardening on 2008-03-06, 10:31:00

Some of the many reasons that folks
are drawn to seaside retreats, and thence,
to seaside gardening.




As with all well-designed gardens,
winter interest is a key factor, in the design process.
The stark beauty of winter is, perhaps, even more
striking in a seaside landscape.


All Photos ©2004-2007 CBI

Designing and Maintaining that Seaside Garden...
By Deb Lambert

Approach your seaside gardening armed with basic knowledge of coping with the elements, as well as design concepts, and you'll realize success. While the last discussion dealt with warming effects, wind, sand, and sandy soil, there are several other factors to consider before delving into the subject of suitable plant material.

While salt in very small quantities will actually promote vigorous root systems, larger quantities, such as those deposited on the landscape during severe coastal storms, are toxic to plant tissue. Fortunately, salt has an affinity for water - remember how table salt clogged up the salt shaker during humid weather? Salt accumulates in the soil, since after the moisture evaporates, the salt moves about through the soil. Drenching the soil, on a regular basis, with fresh water will leach salt downward and safely away from root zones. Because salt is attracted to water, gardens and lawns subjected to coastal flooding, should be flushed with fresh water as soon as standing sea water has drained away.

Applications of limestone and gypsum are also helpful in repairing damage after severe storms. Garden gypsum (and lime) neutralizes the acidity associated with sea salt, road salt and dog urine spots on lawns. Gypsum opens up heavy soil, improving drainage, but also binds together loose, sandy soils. And, as mentioned last time, the incorporation of compost and other organic material is invaluable in improving texture and the moisture-holding capacity of sandy soil, and should be added, annually. Consider using polymers, especially around new plantings or in window boxes and container gardens. These crystals absorb and retain incredible amounts of water, acting as a reservoir in fast-draining soils, or in times of drought.

What makes some plants better suited for seaside culture than others? Many develop extremely deep root systems as they seek water. Some plants have facilities, like succulent leaves, for storing moisture, while others have protective leaf surfaces to reduce moisture loss. Plants with smooth, protective surfaces are pines, yews, some hollies, yucca and sea holly. Plants like heather and juniper have foliage comprised of small, overlapping scales which affords salt and wind resistance. Silver-leaved plants are protected by the same tiny hairs which give them their grayish coloration. Salt crystals are caught in the hairs, thus protecting the leaf surface. Glaucous plants, those covered with a whitish "bloom," are afforded similar protection, bayberry leaves being a case in point. Often, the fruits or berries of seashore plants are protected with a hard or waxy coating. Buds, too, are protected with hard, shiny surfaces or tiny hairs.

If that seaside site is new to you, observe which plants flourish naturally, see what plants have proven successful for your neighbors, learn about your various exposures and how storms affect them. If you choose your plants wisely, natural windbreaks will prove more successful than fences or large walls. A mixed planting will be more attractive and vigorous, holding the soil with its roots, while framing or accenting the ocean view. Low brick or stone walls will protect low-growing plants from the wind, creating a warm micro-climate - all this without affecting the overall view.

Plants that will survive in the most exposed areas include rugosa rose, black pine, autumn olive, shadbush, Scotch broom, privet, American beach grass, most species of juniper, several species of white oak and white poplar. Plants needing a bit more shelter are little leaf linden, Norway and red maple, beach cherry and plum, purpleleaf plum, flowering crab, Swiss stone pine, willow species, Austrian and Scotch pine, Colorado blue spruce, honeylocust, black locust, London plane and white mulberry.

Having similar preferences are barberry, burning bush (these first two may be on your local 'invasive species' list, so might be unavailable), Japanese holly, inkberry, spirea, rose of Sharon, shrub roses, hydrangea, viburnum, grape, wisteria, highbush blueberry, potentilla and butterfly bush. Many of the ornamental grasses grow well at the seashore, as do groundcovering plants like bearberry, heather, thyme, St. Johnswort, artemisia, yarrow, herbs and creeping junipers.

This is just a thumbnail sketch of seaside gardens, outlining some of the basics. For more in-depth information and expanded plant lists, consult one of the many fine references available at bookstores or at your local garden center.

©Deb Lambert 2008/All ©2004-2007 photos from the photographer's seaside gardens.

Planning a Garden by the Sea

(Via gardenauthor)

Posted by admin to seaside garden planning, seaside gardening on 2008-03-04, 08:53:00


"Planning a Garden by the Sea"
By Deb Lambert

From ancient times to present, man has striven to beautify the edifices he has erected by the sea. Sometimes the landscape designs are as fanciful and contrived as the buildings they surround. For example, the late 18th century found people seeking the healthful benefits of seaside spas, along the English coast. With architecture borrowed from temples and palaces of other countries, it stands to reason that the exotically landscaped grounds would include features and ornamentation of far-off climes.

There are basic concepts, one might even say precepts, that are as true for gardening by the sea, as they are for gardening far from the water's edge. Whether your tastes in architecture and landscape design tend toward the formal or informal, the basic principles are the same. Landscaping "ties" the house to the ground, bringing the building into harmony with its surroundings. Working with an eye toward the subtle transition from neatly landscaped grounds to natural, adjacent areas, is the common thread running through the creation of all good landscape plans.

If, in the natural landscape, there exists a rugged cliff and breathtaking ocean view, you would not erect a high fence nor would you plant a high windbreak, with the intent of cultivating a variety of plants best left for the woodland garden. You would lose your magnificent view and, most likely, the plants you strove to cultivate. The inclusion of such borrowed views, is of prime importance in any plan. As you include shrubs and trees in the landscape theme, make sure that they will not obscure any panoramic vistas, as they attain their mature height.

The challenge of planning a garden by the sea is probably greater than that faced by many inland gardeners. Working with, and observing nature, is the key to success. While you may enjoy a more moderate climate, enabling you to grow plants not generally cultivated in the general area, the warming effect of the water is not a constant factor. Cold winter winds can prove fatal and many plants will benefit from the protection of burlap and anti-desiccants.

Wind, at any time of year, is a factor to be reckoned with, as it can be one of the most destructive elements with which you deal. It can break branches, tear leaves, nip flower buds before they open and erode the soil that supports your plants. The drying effect of the wind, to both soil and foliage, is a constant problem. Sand, blown about by the wind can be even more detrimental, as it abrades leaves and bark, sometimes burying plants.

The soil for your seaside garden may be sandy or gravelly, possibly containing shell particles, high in calcium. The lack of calcium, or lime, can have the same effect as an over-abundance of calcium. Soil nutrients already present, as well as those that you apply in the form of fertilizer, become locked up and are not utilized by the plants. Soil tests are indispensable, in judging what additives and nutrients are essential for future success.

Compost, composted manure, peat moss, peat humus and finely ground, composted bark are all invaluable additives, to improve the texture and fertility of sandy soils. With such well-drained soil, roots are not likely to rot and there is less chance of frost-heave damage. Ledge is often a factor in seaside gardening, and will greatly affect your selection of plant material. It usually presents us with a shallow soil layer that causes plants, especially turf grasses, to dry suddenly from accumulated heat.

If you garden by the sea, drop by next time, for more tips and suitable plant material.

©Deb Lambert 2008/Photo ©CBI 2008