Let’s Talk Turkey!
(Via gardenauthor)
I know - you've "had it up to here" with this particular bird, by now... sandwiches, leftovers, fricassee, tetrazzini and buckets of it lurking in the freezer "for later." Yet, as you stand there, up to your elbows in turkey carcass, boning it out for soup, let your mind drift away to your November gardens.
Enjoying that pie, are we? Backyard gardens all set for the winter, are they? If so, good for you - ignore this posting. If not, let's guilt you into activity. Well, put down the fork, move away from the pie and head outdoors, as soon as you've organized those backyard chores.
Oh, and by the way, if you're looking for a little fortification before all that backyard activity, pie is probably not the way to go. Yes sir - fruits, veggies and good old-fashioned yard chores will whip us back into some sort of shape, before the next round of holidays are upon us. So, here's a quick outline for those unfinished tasks. Let's "talk turkey".....
1)Bulbs: Forgot that bag of Dutch bulbs in the garage, did we? It's not too late to plant those languishing tulip, daffodil, hyacinth and crocus bulbs. Sunny, well-drained spots... larger bulbs at about 6" deep/smaller bulbs at at about 3" deep - work in some bulb booster fertilizer before planting, backfill, tamp and water well. If desired, cover with 2" of year 'round bark mulch or 3-4" of salt marsh hay, as a temporary winter mulch.
2)Forcing bulbs: You can opt out of the above chore and still save those neglected bulbs, by "forcing" them. Group them closely in shallow pots of well-drained potting soil, keep them lightly damp, dark and cool (35-40º - bulkhead, breezeway, etc.) for 10-12 weeks. Bring them into the home, as bulbs start to sprout, for an indoor winter flower show. Plant them out in the spring.
3)Raking/Mowing: Now that the leaves are finally dropping, all at once, keep them raked off the lawn areas. This allows necessary sunlight and air circulation, resulting in a healthier lawn, far less susceptible to disease problems. If, after raking, you discover that the grass blades are bending over (maybe you stopped mowing too soon?), you really ought to give it one more mowing, at a height of 1-1/2-2". This, too, will help with disease prevention.
4)Feeding: I know it's late - about as late as you can feed and expect any visible results, next spring. However, that extra effort will yield greener, thicker turf and healthier shrubs in '08!
I've often fed the landscape on Thanksgiving, while the turkey was in the oven... small to large deciduous and evergreen specimens are good candidates for late fall feeding - do not feed roses, perennials, grasses or vines, as they could break dormancy. (At this point, leave the deciduous and evergreen trees until spring.)
Use an organic, granular fertilizer and try to apply it just before a soaking rain. Supplement with superphosphate (0-20-0) or rock phosphate, for increased blossom production and stronger roots. Lime (for lilacs and other higher pH specimens) and garden gypsum for enhanced drainage can be applied right now, as well. These last two can be applied to that newly-raked lawn, along with a winter turf food.
5)Dormant-season spraying: Unless we have daytime temps of 45-50º, and nights above freezing for a couple of days, it's probably too late to prevent insects and diseases from over-wintering on fruit trees and other specimens. But, next March, under similar conditions, use that dormant-season oil (for insects), lime-sulfur (for disease) or combination product (check all labels for plant sensitivity) to clean up any lingering problems, before plants break dormancy.
6)Wilt Pruf®, or similar anti-desiccant, applied on a dry, 40-50º day, will protect broadleaved evergreens and even rose canes from the drying winds of winter - most plants can be sprayed, but there are a few exceptions (check the label).
7)Burlap: For that extra bit of protection, attach burlap, snow-fence style, to hardwood stakes.
8) Tree stake kits: Slip the wire cable through rubber hose segments (to protect tender branches and bark), around lower branches and fasten it to the 18", sturdy wooden stakes, to prevent tipping and/or uprooting the first season. Don't over-tighten. Leaving a little "play" in the wire allows the tree to move slightly - this results in a stronger, better-rooted tree.
9)Trunk wrap: Protect the bark of young fruit and ornamental trees with treated tree wrap or plastic trunk guards. Both are spiraled down the trunk to protect against sunscald, over the winter. Remove late winter/early spring for air circulation. The perforated guards are my personal favorite, as they allow some air circulation and offer some protection against the girdling of trunks, by hungry rodents. For long-term rodent protection, expandable sleeves of hardware cloth will foil rabbits and other pests.
10)Roses: Don't prune - tie any overly-long canes, already hardened-off for winter, to wooden stakes, adjacent fences or arbors. Prune as desired next spring.
The rest... drain and store hoses, insulate spigots, winterize mowers and tillers, clean and oil cutting and digging tools. Cover or store outdoor furniture - you know the drill.
So, put on your jacket, woolly hat, gloves and get busy.... I'll keep writing, thinking up some really neat winter chores for you - right after I indulge in a turkey panini!
©Deb Lambert 2007
Photo credits: Top 2 - Free Digital Photos / Bottom - Flower Pictures
I know - you've "had it up to here" with this particular bird, by now... sandwiches, leftovers, fricassee, tetrazzini and buckets of it lurking in the freezer "for later." Yet, as you stand there, up to your elbows in turkey carcass, boning it out for soup, let your mind drift away to your November gardens.
Enjoying that pie, are we? Backyard gardens all set for the winter, are they? If so, good for you - ignore this posting. If not, let's guilt you into activity. Well, put down the fork, move away from the pie and head outdoors, as soon as you've organized those backyard chores.
Oh, and by the way, if you're looking for a little fortification before all that backyard activity, pie is probably not the way to go. Yes sir - fruits, veggies and good old-fashioned yard chores will whip us back into some sort of shape, before the next round of holidays are upon us. So, here's a quick outline for those unfinished tasks. Let's "talk turkey".....1)Bulbs: Forgot that bag of Dutch bulbs in the garage, did we? It's not too late to plant those languishing tulip, daffodil, hyacinth and crocus bulbs. Sunny, well-drained spots... larger bulbs at about 6" deep/smaller bulbs at at about 3" deep - work in some bulb booster fertilizer before planting, backfill, tamp and water well. If desired, cover with 2" of year 'round bark mulch or 3-4" of salt marsh hay, as a temporary winter mulch.
2)Forcing bulbs: You can opt out of the above chore and still save those neglected bulbs, by "forcing" them. Group them closely in shallow pots of well-drained potting soil, keep them lightly damp, dark and cool (35-40º - bulkhead, breezeway, etc.) for 10-12 weeks. Bring them into the home, as bulbs start to sprout, for an indoor winter flower show. Plant them out in the spring.
3)Raking/Mowing: Now that the leaves are finally dropping, all at once, keep them raked off the lawn areas. This allows necessary sunlight and air circulation, resulting in a healthier lawn, far less susceptible to disease problems. If, after raking, you discover that the grass blades are bending over (maybe you stopped mowing too soon?), you really ought to give it one more mowing, at a height of 1-1/2-2". This, too, will help with disease prevention.
4)Feeding: I know it's late - about as late as you can feed and expect any visible results, next spring. However, that extra effort will yield greener, thicker turf and healthier shrubs in '08!
I've often fed the landscape on Thanksgiving, while the turkey was in the oven... small to large deciduous and evergreen specimens are good candidates for late fall feeding - do not feed roses, perennials, grasses or vines, as they could break dormancy. (At this point, leave the deciduous and evergreen trees until spring.)
Use an organic, granular fertilizer and try to apply it just before a soaking rain. Supplement with superphosphate (0-20-0) or rock phosphate, for increased blossom production and stronger roots. Lime (for lilacs and other higher pH specimens) and garden gypsum for enhanced drainage can be applied right now, as well. These last two can be applied to that newly-raked lawn, along with a winter turf food.
5)Dormant-season spraying: Unless we have daytime temps of 45-50º, and nights above freezing for a couple of days, it's probably too late to prevent insects and diseases from over-wintering on fruit trees and other specimens. But, next March, under similar conditions, use that dormant-season oil (for insects), lime-sulfur (for disease) or combination product (check all labels for plant sensitivity) to clean up any lingering problems, before plants break dormancy.
6)Wilt Pruf®, or similar anti-desiccant, applied on a dry, 40-50º day, will protect broadleaved evergreens and even rose canes from the drying winds of winter - most plants can be sprayed, but there are a few exceptions (check the label).
7)Burlap: For that extra bit of protection, attach burlap, snow-fence style, to hardwood stakes.
8) Tree stake kits: Slip the wire cable through rubber hose segments (to protect tender branches and bark), around lower branches and fasten it to the 18", sturdy wooden stakes, to prevent tipping and/or uprooting the first season. Don't over-tighten. Leaving a little "play" in the wire allows the tree to move slightly - this results in a stronger, better-rooted tree.
9)Trunk wrap: Protect the bark of young fruit and ornamental trees with treated tree wrap or plastic trunk guards. Both are spiraled down the trunk to protect against sunscald, over the winter. Remove late winter/early spring for air circulation. The perforated guards are my personal favorite, as they allow some air circulation and offer some protection against the girdling of trunks, by hungry rodents. For long-term rodent protection, expandable sleeves of hardware cloth will foil rabbits and other pests.
10)Roses: Don't prune - tie any overly-long canes, already hardened-off for winter, to wooden stakes, adjacent fences or arbors. Prune as desired next spring.
The rest... drain and store hoses, insulate spigots, winterize mowers and tillers, clean and oil cutting and digging tools. Cover or store outdoor furniture - you know the drill.
So, put on your jacket, woolly hat, gloves and get busy.... I'll keep writing, thinking up some really neat winter chores for you - right after I indulge in a turkey panini!
©Deb Lambert 2007
Photo credits: Top 2 - Free Digital Photos / Bottom - Flower Pictures
